It came like a wave, all at once
Paddling out into the surf, the spray of waves crashing reaches your face and suddenly, you’re wide awake. Heart racing as you push your way through the incoming set.
You make it through one wave, but the next one sucks you backwards and you lose a lot of progress. Suddenly an enormous tunneling giant grabs you and pulls you under—tumbling, breathless and afraid—just when you think you can take any more, you pop up to the surface. Eyes stinging with salt, for a moment there is calm, but the breakers begin rushing in again…
Hanging onto your board, you question your sanity as you become surrounded by white walls. They come and go in their own unpredictable way, sometimes you’re drowning—a wave will do whatever it wants to you, whenever it wants to.
Making your way back to the shore, here you sit gazing out, terrified the next break will pull you under for good. Spitting salt and roaring with unpredictability, you can’t help but be drawn into its wild and wondrous beauty. A tug of war between the depths and the sands. You know when the swell of ones heart holds so much water, you can’t help but go deep.
I can’t help but paddle out again, give it all I’ve got until it takes me completely, wraps me in blue.