It came like a wave, all at once
Paddling out into the surf, the spray of waves crashing reaches your face and suddenly, you’re wide awake. Heart racing as you push your way through the incoming set.
You make it through one wave, but the next one sucks you backwards and you lose a lot of progress. Suddenly an enormous tunneling giant grabs you and pulls you under—tumbling, breathless and afraid—just when you think you can take any more, you pop up to the surface. Eyes stinging with salt, for a moment there is calm, but the breakers begin rushing in again… Continue Reading…
